![]() Should also decide how you’ll fasten the face frame to your cabinet. Mortised butt hinges, now is a good time to cut the mortises in the stiles. Step 7: Plane, scrape or sand the back face of your assembled face frame to flattenĪny minor mismatching at the joint seams. Glue as well, although this isn’t mandatory. Note: You can reinforce pocket-screw joints with A locking face-frame clamp (silver in photo) is Hold each joint securely together: the screws sometimes push the workpieces apartĪs they tap their holes. There’s no need toĭrill pilot holes in the mating parts first. Step 6: Assemble the face frame parts by driving self-tapping face frame screwsĭown into the screw pockets and across the joints (see Photo 5). Hole in a couple of plunging passes, pulling it back out of the jig holes to clear To keep the drill bit from clogging, drill each Step 5: Drill pairs of pocket holes into the marked faces of the parts you This General Tool’s version also recommends fastening the jig to a scrapīase so you can clamp it to your worksurface. Your pocket-hole jig will explain where to tighten this collar, based on the style Tightening a stop collar on the bit (see Photo 3). Into one workpiece with a special stepped drill bit. Step 4: Making a pocket-hole joint involves boring a pair of steeply pitched holes We’ll drill the ends of the rails and door divider. ![]() Joint part and into the edges of the mating part. The easiest joints to drill are those with screws driven through the ends of one Receive the screw pockets and which direction to drive the screws (see Photo 2). It’s also helpful to mark an arrow on each joint to show which piece will Parts of each joint with letters or hash marks so you can keep their orientationĬlear. Dry-fit the entire face frame together, and label both Measure for any intermediate divider stiles or other rails. Step 3: On a large worksurface, set the rails and stiles face down and into to give youĪ little “wiggle” room when installing it and, if necessary, scribing it to anĪdjacent cabinet. Will make your face frame overhang the edges of the cabinet by 1/8 in. Use a long rule to measure from the stiles over to the opposite edge Set the stiles together and so they’re lined up with the outside face of theĬabinet side. An easy way to find the exact length of the top and bottom rails is to Step 2: Measure the height of your cabinet carcass, and crosscut the outer stiles Any intermediate stiles, such as for the doorĭivider we’ll show here, should fit between the top and bottom rails. The outermost stiles should run the full height of your cabinet, with the top andīottom rails fitting in between them. Workpieces overly long so you can cut them to exact length as you build the frame. Rip the rails and stiles to the width you desire, and leave the Face frame components are typically between 1 1/2 and 2 ![]() Step 1: Joint and plane stock for your face frame parts so the stiles and rails Here’s how to dress up your next cabinet project with a pocket screwed face frame. With a simple jig, making a pocket-screw joint is simple: Drill a pair of stopped holes and drive two self-tapping screws to lock the joint. You can use a variety of joinery options for making face frames, including dowels, mortise-and-tenons or even small biscuits, but none of these alternatives are as fast as pocket screws. They can also help correct minor plywood bowing and give you a means of fitting one cabinet against its neighbor. Trim out a cabinet the classic way using pocket-screw joints.įace frames provide attachment points for door hinge and latch hardware, while hiding the front edges of the cabinet box.
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